Caring
for Plants Overwintering Indoors
By Melinda Myers
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[January 05, 2024]
Gardeners are notorious for pushing the limits
of their growing zones. Tropical plants, succulents, and other
plants that are not hardy to the winter climate often end up indoors
for the winter.
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It
usually starts with one or two plants that you just can’t part with
or are concerned you won’t be able to purchase next year. Since you
are taking a couple of plants in for the winter, why not add a few
more?
Now that the plants have been indoors for several weeks or months
you are faced with keeping them alive and the leaf litter on the
floor to a minimum. As the plants adjust and acclimate to their new
environment, some leaves may have turned yellow or brown and dropped
off the plant. This is due to the lower light and humidity indoors.
New leaves better adapted to the lower light indoors
should begin appearing. If the plants do not appear to be
acclimating to the indoors, try increasing the amount of light they
receive. Move them in front of a sunnier window or under artificial
lights. A combination of natural and artificial lights works well.
Select a location free of drafts of hot and cold air. Avoid placing
plants above heat vents or near drafty windows and doors. Succulents
prefer cool but draft-free locations over winter.
Next, help your plants deal with the dry air indoors. Group plants
together for an attractive display and to increase the humidity
around each plant. As one plant loses moisture from its leaves and
transpires, the others benefit from this added moisture.
Reduce maintenance and increase the humidity by
setting plants on a layer of gravel, marbles, or a similar material
set in trays or saucers. The pebbles elevate the pots above any
water that collects in the saucer, helping reduce the risk of
waterlogged soil that can lead to root rot. This technique allows
you to water thoroughly while eliminating the need to pour off the
excess water. As the excess water evaporates, it increases the
humidity around the plants.
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Adjust your watering schedule to compensate for the
reduced light and changes in room temperature and humidity. Check
the soil moisture before watering. In general, water thoroughly when
the top inch of soil is dry. For succulents, allow the top few
inches of soil to dry and water just often enough to prevent the
plants from shriveling.
Most indoor plants do not need to be fertilized in
winter. Only those that are actively growing will need additional
nutrients. Don’t be fooled by leggy growth and paler leaves on
overwintering plants. Lower light is more likely the culprit than a
lack of nutrients.
Regularly check the plants for insects and diseases. Examine the
upper and lower leaf surfaces and along the stems. Then do a bit of
research to properly identify the pest and find the best control
options. If you opt to use a pesticide, read and follow all label
directions for safe and effective control.
Prune as needed in spring to encourage fuller more compact growth.
Begin fertilizing with a dilute solution of any flowering houseplant
fertilizer as days lengthen, sunlight increases, and your plants
show signs of improved growth.
As you move the plants into the garden next season, decide if it was
worth the effort or better to purchase new plants. But as a
gardener, you will likely repeat the process next year as it is part
of the fun of gardening.
Melinda Myers has written more than 20 gardening books, including
the recently released Midwest Gardener’s Handbook, 2nd Edition and
Small Space Gardening. She hosts The Great Courses “How to Grow
Anything” instant video and DVD series and the nationally syndicated
Melinda’s Garden Moment TV & radio program. Myers is a columnist and
contributing editor for Birds & Blooms magazine. Myers’ website is
www.MelindaMyers.com.
[Photo courtesy of MelindaMyers.com] |