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When purchasing bulbs, the bigger the bulb, the more expense but the
greater the flower bloom size. Daffodil bulbs sometimes have two
bulbs together. Double bulbs may be pulled apart before planting.
Large bulbs, such as tulips and daffodils, should be planted 6 to
8 inches deep. Small bulbs are planted about 4 inches deep. The rule
of thumb is to plant bulbs at a depth equal to two to three times
the height of the bulb. Plant the bulb with the point up. It is a
good idea to map the location or place a colored golf tee above the
bulb. Then mulch with 3 to 4 inches of mulch and water thoroughly
after planting.
Tree decline
When the entire tree looks like it is dying, the injury, disease
or insect logically must be affecting the trunk or the roots. These
areas would cut off the water supply to the entire tree. Look at the
entire tree and compare it to nearby trees. Also consider when the
problem started and what changed on the site about that same time.
Healthy trees don't suddenly die because they are old.
Many below-ground reasons may cause tree decline. Drought,
flooding, compaction of the root zone, poor soils, planting too
deeply, inadequate space for roots and many other things could be
involved. Often, diagnosing such a problem is a process of
elimination. One of the possibilities more difficult to eliminate is
root rot. Most gardeners believe that they cannot possibly know the
health of a mature tree's roots.
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Cankers on the stems, stem tip dieback, off-color foliage, early
fall color and early defoliation are also clues that a tree may be
stressed by underground causes.
To detect the wood rots and root rots, look for mushroomlike
fungi growing at the base of the tree or shrub. In wood rot fungi,
the conks -- also called shelf fungi or fruiting bodies -- may be
found growing on the trunk or main branches. These are signs of the
disease. The actual fungus is probably growing in or on the roots or
inside the wood. One of the most common examples is Ganoderma root
rot, which produces a shelf-type of fungal structure at the base of
many trees, especially honeylocust. The structure is reddish-brown
and appears to have been varnished. Its presence indicates invasion
by a root rot. Other fungi may indicate wood rots. Wet weather often
triggers the formation of these structures. They could easily be
confused with fungi growing on dead organic debris near a tree. If,
however, they are growing from the tree itself, they are excellent
signs of wood rot or root rot.
No chemicals help a tree in decline. Use approved cultural
practices, such as proper watering and fertilizing, to improve
vitality. Cut out dead branches in the dormant season, fertilize in
late fall or early spring, and keep traffic off the root system. For
very old or large trees, fertilization and watering may have no
benefit, but these practices sometimes help the tree survive for
years.
[John
Fulton, unit leader,
University of Illinois Extension,
Logan County Unit]
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