And
tucked away in each historical neighborhood are enough restaurants,
outdoor cafes and bakeries to tempt the willpower of many dedicated
dieters. St. Louis’ love affair with food was evident when
merchants made headlines during the 1904 World’s Fair by inventing
iced tea and ice cream cones and making hot dogs and hamburgers so
popular. As local residents and tourists have discovered, the city
now offers an abundance of ways to tempt your taste buds.
The
Hill
(From
downtown St. Louis, take I-64 west to Kingshighway south and turn
west on Shaw.)
There’s
no better place to begin a tour of St. Louis neighborhoods than the
Hill, where small bakeries, groceries and restaurants serving up
equal portions of Old World charm and homemade spaghetti mingle with
rows of tiny brick bungalows on narrow streets. The 15-block area
looks similar to when it was settled in the early 1900s by Italian
immigrants.
Fireplugs
are painted in traditional green, white and red colors of Italy, and
colorful banners waving in the breeze set a boundary for the
neighborhood. A statute symbolizing Italian immigrants stands at a
busy street corner. Signs advertising bocce ball are painted on the
sides of corner brick watering holes, where elderly women feel just
as welcome as their grandsons. These symbols aren’t for the
benefits of tourists; they signify the history and traditions of the
people who live and work there. If there’s any doubt, just step
inside one of the locally operated grocery stores, where fresh
pepperoni, cheeses and olives fill food cases, and pizzelle cookies,
fresh spices and homemade pasta sit on the shelves next to religious
symbols and candles. I love shopping at the tiny Italian markets and
make an effort to stock up on olive oil, pine nuts, organic tomato
sauce and other Italian staples during my visits there.
[to top of second
column in this section]
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You
really can’t go wrong in choosing a place for a good Italian
dinner in this section of town, but there are a few places that
stand out from the pack. Favazza’s is a favorite among local
residents, and the decor is as authentic and homespun as the food.
Located at 5201 Southwest Ave. at Marconi, the restaurant’s brick
walls, dark wood paneling and stained glass windows all add to the
homey atmosphere, and the pasta, veal and steak entrees are all
excellent.
Giovanni’s,
located at 5201 Shaw, another favorite among families and senior
citizens, offers old-fashioned, classic Italian dishes, but be
prepared for a long wait for a table. Repeat customers can often
expect a two-hour wait even at 5:30 p.m., but you’ll forget all
about the inconvenience after the first bite of bow-tie pasta with
smoked salmon in a alfredo sauce and garlic-encrusted broiled
tomatoes.
Trattoria
Marcella, at 3600 Watson, serves rustic Italian cuisine and pleases
the palate with its lobster risoto and ever-changing selection of
fresh ravioli. Be sure to call ahead for reservations.
(To
be continued)
[Penny
Zimmerman-Wills]
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St. Louis
calendar of events for November and December 2000
Nov.
19: Holiday Champagne Stroll, Clayton Row Antiques, 11 a.m. to 5
p.m. (314) 725-2622
Nov.
20-26: Annual Festival of Trees, The Scottish Rite Cathedral.
Unique display of over more than 200 decorated Christmas trees,
wreaths and centerpieces, arts and crafts area for children, holiday
boutique, gingerbread village, live entertainment, Victorian teas and
more. (314) 432-6200.Nov. 23: Mid-America Holiday Parade,
downtown. Floats, bands, carriages, equestrian units and Santa Claus
kick off the holiday season. (314) 286-4086.
Nov.
24-Dec. 23: Christmas Traditions, historic Main Street, St.
Charles, Mo. Holiday festivities include yule log burning, caroling
and Santas on weekends. Shopping and dining Wednesdays and Fridays
until 9 p.m. (636) 946-7776 or (800) 366-2427.
Nov.
24-26: Annual Polka Festival, Regal Riverfront Hotel Grand
Ballroom. Three days of polka music. (314) 846-8906.
Dec.
7-8: Tower Grove House candlelight tours, Missouri Botanical
Garden, Tower Grove House. The elegance and romance of a 19th century
English Christmas in Henry Shaw's country home, decorated for the
holidays in traditional Victorian splendor. Advance reservations
required. (314) 577-5150.
Dec.
30: Kwanzaa: Festival of the First Fruits, at Missouri Botanical
Garden, Ridgway Center. A celebration of the African American culture.
Kwanzaa is a Swahili term meaning "first fruits," and a
Kwanzaa ceremony highlights a day of storytelling, craft and jewelry
workshops, and authentic African drumming and choral performances.
Time to be announced. (314) 577-5141
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