This part of a continuing series explores the different neighborhoods of St. Louis
and the restaurants there.

St. Louis neighborhoods and eateries

[OCT. 24, 2000]  St. Louis is a city of many faces. From the Hill’s rich Italian heritage to the Victorian splendor of LaFayette Square, this city offers a variety of distinct neighborhoods to explore and enjoy.

And tucked away in each historical neighborhood are enough restaurants, outdoor cafes and bakeries to tempt the willpower of many dedicated dieters. St. Louis’ love affair with food was evident when merchants made headlines during the 1904 World’s Fair by inventing iced tea and ice cream cones and making hot dogs and hamburgers so popular. As local residents and tourists have discovered, the city now offers an abundance of ways to tempt your taste buds.

The Hill

(From downtown St. Louis, take I-64 west to Kingshighway south and turn west on Shaw.)

There’s no better place to begin a tour of St. Louis neighborhoods than the Hill, where small bakeries, groceries and restaurants serving up equal portions of Old World charm and homemade spaghetti mingle with rows of tiny brick bungalows on narrow streets. The 15-block area looks similar to when it was settled in the early 1900s by Italian immigrants.

 

Fireplugs are painted in traditional green, white and red colors of Italy, and colorful banners waving in the breeze set a boundary for the neighborhood. A statute symbolizing Italian immigrants stands at a busy street corner. Signs advertising bocce ball are painted on the sides of corner brick watering holes, where elderly women feel just as welcome as their grandsons. These symbols aren’t for the benefits of tourists; they signify the history and traditions of the people who live and work there. If there’s any doubt, just step inside one of the locally operated grocery stores, where fresh pepperoni, cheeses and olives fill food cases, and pizzelle cookies, fresh spices and homemade pasta sit on the shelves next to religious symbols and candles. I love shopping at the tiny Italian markets and make an effort to stock up on olive oil, pine nuts, organic tomato sauce and other Italian staples during my visits there.

 

 

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You really can’t go wrong in choosing a place for a good Italian dinner in this section of town, but there are a few places that stand out from the pack. Favazza’s is a favorite among local residents, and the decor is as authentic and homespun as the food. Located at 5201 Southwest Ave. at Marconi, the restaurant’s brick walls, dark wood paneling and stained glass windows all add to the homey atmosphere, and the pasta, veal and steak entrees are all excellent.

Giovanni’s, located at 5201 Shaw, another favorite among families and senior citizens, offers old-fashioned, classic Italian dishes, but be prepared for a long wait for a table. Repeat customers can often expect a two-hour wait even at 5:30 p.m., but you’ll forget all about the inconvenience after the first bite of bow-tie pasta with smoked salmon in a alfredo sauce and garlic-encrusted broiled tomatoes.

 

Trattoria Marcella, at 3600 Watson, serves rustic Italian cuisine and pleases the palate with its lobster risoto and ever-changing selection of fresh ravioli. Be sure to call ahead for reservations.

(To be continued)

 

[Penny Zimmerman-Wills]

St. Louis calendar of events for November and December 2000

Nov. 19:  Holiday Champagne Stroll, Clayton Row Antiques, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. (314) 725-2622

Nov. 20-26:  Annual Festival of Trees, The Scottish Rite Cathedral. Unique display of over more than 200 decorated Christmas trees, wreaths and centerpieces, arts and crafts area for children, holiday boutique, gingerbread village, live entertainment, Victorian teas and more. (314) 432-6200.Nov. 23:  Mid-America Holiday Parade, downtown. Floats, bands, carriages, equestrian units and Santa Claus kick off the holiday season. (314) 286-4086.

Nov. 24-Dec. 23:  Christmas Traditions, historic Main Street, St. Charles, Mo. Holiday festivities include yule log burning, caroling and Santas on weekends. Shopping and dining Wednesdays and Fridays until 9 p.m. (636) 946-7776 or (800) 366-2427.

Nov. 24-26:  Annual Polka Festival, Regal Riverfront Hotel Grand Ballroom. Three days of polka music. (314) 846-8906.

Dec. 7-8:  Tower Grove House candlelight tours, Missouri Botanical Garden, Tower Grove House. The elegance and romance of a 19th century English Christmas in Henry Shaw's country home, decorated for the holidays in traditional Victorian splendor. Advance reservations required. (314) 577-5150.

Dec. 30:  Kwanzaa: Festival of the First Fruits, at Missouri Botanical Garden, Ridgway Center. A celebration of the African American culture. Kwanzaa is a Swahili term meaning "first fruits," and a Kwanzaa ceremony highlights a day of storytelling, craft and jewelry workshops, and authentic African drumming and choral performances. Time to be announced. (314) 577-5141

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