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And in secondary school, they jump considerably: perhaps $20 per year for uniforms, another $20 for a "building fund," $50 for food, plus charges for desks even if students bring their own, to give examples Mchome calls typical. Most demoralizing is a common fee for supposedly "supplemental" tutoring where teachers actually cover essential material. Students who can't pay must leave the classroom. Those burdens come to life in the office of Mchome's charity, called "Watu," Swahili for "people." The group supports about 120 students per year, but turns away seven in eight applicants. A recent visitor was 71-year-old Anthony Assenga. A retired irrigation engineer with no pension, he carries a dignified smile but also the sadness of a man who cannot provide for his three grandchildren whom he adopted after their parents died of AIDS. "Education is the only way for a child in the future," Assenga says. Without it, "he is going to be a thief." He worries most for 12-year-old granddaughter Irine, who won't find a job or a good marriage without more schooling. For now, Irine has gotten a reprieve from the headmaster, but still must find about $80 to stay enrolled. "I feel very sorry, but what can I do?" Assenga says, adding he has hit up friends and his pastor but is still well short. "I have nothing to give." Salum Geofrey is a bright-eyed 20-year-old who says he wants to become a journalist to expose corruption. Money problems got him kicked out of the government school in his home village, so he traveled 12 hours by bus to Moshi because he heard there were schools here. It's critical that he sit national exams this fall. "If I don't take the exam, my life and ambition will be very badly destroyed," said Geofrey. If Mchome cannot help him, "I will try to find another way ... but I don't think I will succeed. There is not enough time left." Geofrey shares a home with friends on the outskirts of Moshi, at the end of a dirt path through a maize field beside a prison farm. His small room is covered with newspaper photos of soccer stars and Barack Obama. On his desk sits an Oxford dictionary and old textbooks he borrowed from housemates. In the afternoon, when his housemates return from school, he asks them to repeat the day's lessons for him. He blames Tanzania's government for his predicament. "When they go outside the country, they say we have invested very much, we have free education," Geoffrey says. "When you come here, you see it is vice versa. All that money, I don't know where it goes." Repeated phone calls and e-mails to Tanzanian government officials went unanswered. Undoubtedly, Tanzania's sclerotic bureaucracy is part of the problem. But there is also a feeble tax base built on almost impossible demographic arithmetic: Because of AIDS deaths and a high birth rate, half of Tanzania's 42 million people are 18 or under. Many schoolmasters try hard to avoid sending students home. Some play hardball, cracking down on fee collections just before all-or-nothing national exams. The law says students can't be sent home for nonpayment, but it routinely happens through verbal finesse. "They don't say 'go home because you haven't paid your fees,'" Mchome explains. "They say
'go home and bring the fees.'"
But overall, he and even hard-pressed students like Mrema and Geofrey are sympathetic to the school administrators' bind. Msaranga Secondary School is one of about a dozen new secondary schools in Moshi, with 624 students in a cluster of half-finished buildings. There are 11 teachers, including headmaster Saweru who teaches 18 classes a week; his one lone math teacher teaches 50. Desks fill the dirt-floored classrooms wall-to-wall, each shared by two or three students. Others sit on the floor. In a closet-like office, Saweru shows off his meticulous records. The government, he says, has promised him about $13 per student per year. But for the first six months of 2010 he got less than $1 per student. As a secondary school, Msaranga is allowed to charge about $13 per year in tuition, but only half its students have managed to pay. So it imposes fees: $3.25 per year for security, $6.50 for supplemental teaching, $3.25 for an ID card, $40 for food. About half can afford lunch, and sometimes they share the food with those who can't buy their own. "We don't want to tell students to go back home," Saweru says. Warning letters are sent. But "when it becomes very hard and we cannot run the school, we have to tell them today you will not come to school unless you come with money." ___ Online:
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