Dry weather tips and musings

By John Fulton, University of Illinois Extension

[July 30, 2012]  We are going to have trouble getting that new grass seed established with little moisture available and the high temperatures. Normal fall seeding times would begin in about two weeks, but I would recommend saving time and dollars if rain doesn't come. If you're in an area that hasn't received moisture for about a month or more, you might want to consider watering with a quarter of an inch or so to keep existing grass roots and crowns alive. This should be done on a weekly basis. This won't green up the grass, but will allow it to green up when it does start raining. The idea is to keep the roots and crowns of the plants from completely drying out. Once this happens, recovery isn't even an option. Then we are looking at reseeding into horrible conditions -- unless Mother Nature begins smiling on us.

Perennials are also suffering during this extended dry period. It is a good idea to water perennials (flowers, shrubs, trees, etc.) with an inch of water a week. You can use a sprinkler and catch water in a can to tell how much an inch is. As for using the deep root feeders-waterers, most roots that take up water and nutrients are in the upper foot of soil, so broadcast applications with a sprinkler are probably most effective and easier to apply. A couple of inches of mulch will also help retain moisture and keep the roots cooler.

The only things actively growing in many lawns at this time are called weeds. One of the traditional weeds during dry periods is plantain, and there are two common types in our area. Buckhorn plantain has narrow leaves and a spiked seed head. Broadleaf plantain has the same type of seed head, but as the name suggests, it has broad leaves. As the only green areas in some lawns, control with 2,4-D may be beneficial. That's assuming you don't want the weeds and the unsightly green spots.

Dry weather doesn't bode well for early tomatoes either. There is a perennial problem termed blossom-end rot, which causes a leathery rot on the bottom of the fruits. This is caused by a calcium imbalance in the plant. The calcium imbalance, in turn, is usually caused by uneven moisture supply to the plant. A thorough watering and a deep layer of mulch will usually help to prevent this problem. This year, I wouldn't bet on it solving things -- but it will improve your odds of getting whole tomatoes.

On the plus side, the warm nighttime temperatures have halted the progression of anthracnose and other leaf spot fungi on our shade trees. As mentioned, the watering of perennials will go a long way in assisting them through the dry times, as well as help them recover from disease and insect problems.

Insect development

Insects continue to develop well ahead of schedule. We are running at least three weeks ahead in most cases. This means bagworm control is something for next year's schedule. Japanese beetles will begin winding down about now. Remember, these are emerging eggs laid last summer and fall. Unless something drastic happens, beetle number should be greatly reduced next year. This is due to poor egg and larvae survival in powder-dry soils. It's to the point no self-respecting beetle would even want to lay eggs in most of the turf areas that haven't received rain or water.

One insect of note the past week or so is the green June bug. These are large, iridescent green beetles that also come from a grub stage. Most often, these beetles lay their eggs in areas high in organic matter, such as compost piles or mulched flower beds. They really aren't much of a pest but do sound like bumblebees flying.

[By JOHN FULTON, University of Illinois Extension]