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CALVIN KLEIN True to form, the Calvin Klein resort collection is built on clean,
architectural lines, but creative director Francisco Costa strategically
inserts softer shapes -- and the occasional sexy cutout. The overall shape is long and languid, and colors, textures and prints
often draw inspiration from nature, especially pythons and pebbles from the
desert, Costa explains in his notes. Whites, greens and tans are prominent. A sleeveless vest-style dress with oversized pockets and a belted dropped waist in a luxe sandalwood-color soft nubuck seems like it could be the traveling uniform of the jet set. A stretchy snakeskin long-sleeve shirt and matching wide-band skirt hug the body and have the same elongating effect but seems more user friendly to a broader audience. A series of sleek jumpers with slit-front necklines and hemlines are worn with bandeau tops underneath, which looks great on models, although the flashes of bare skin might make them hard to wear to the office. For evening, though, there's no excuse to shy away from delicate halter dresses with that same open patch, although Costa does offer more modest versions with sheer overlays, too. The finale outfit, a sheer ivory T-shirt over an ivory silk skirt and bandeau, is destined for a tropical beach wedding. GUCCI OK, for this European luxury house, the idea of resort -- or cruise, as it is officially called by the house
-- is, in fact, all about getting away from anything mundane. "An alluring escape to the island of Capri. A wind-swept style and exotic allusions," creative director Frida Giannini says in her notes. She takes the famous Flora pattern from the 1960s and '70s and blows it up into chic slim trousers and a short sheath with black backgrounds, and more flowy daytime dresses with a white background. There's even a leather jacket embroidered with the signature floral design. She was aiming for a little Marisa Berenson mixed with "contemporary intuition to wear color and print." Several pantsuits have slim lapels and trousers that hang on the hips and flare at the bottom, giving another nod to another era. To sit at the hotel bar for evening cocktails, there are colorful mini shifts with jeweled collars and long column gowns. The candy colors make them just a bit more casual than the fabrics and embellishments would suggest. It's vacation, after all. THAKOON This season is the icing on the cake for Thakoon Panichugal, who creates a frothy, upbeat, pretty collection with floral touches and shades of sherbet on T-shirt dresses, blouson tops, dressy shorts and jumpsuits. Jumpsuits, Panichugal says, do particularly well with his customer. He thought of cupcakes a lot while designing, he says. "I only eat the cupcake cake, but it's the frosting that really inspired me and draws me in." For a moment, it seems, he thought of a wedding cake: He uses for several pieces a white jacquard fabric. It looks best in a halter-neck sheath. Maybe that's what led him to the little lingerie touches, too, including a sexy blush-colored silk tank, a peek-a-boo printed slip dress and flirty, polka-dot tap pants. There is a lot of mixing of textures, even some Neoprene and leather, but the mood stays light. His two lines, the signature and the more contemporary label called Addition, are offered as complements to one another so the "angry leopard" track short could pair with the coral basketweave blazer. LOUIS VUITTON The Louis Vuitton resort collection harnesses the power of suggestion. There is very little skin shown, yet one just imagines a sultry, confident woman in the layered looks that come with the long silhouette. Nothing clung too much to the body, either, so there is an alluring ease that comes along with hints of the 1970s. In a mini runway presentation, models teetered in chunky, super-high platform shoes in culottes, pajama tops, dropped-waist dresses and sequin stripe rugbys. There are short swing coats and soft, belted blazers. Straw visor hats add a sporty vibe. Some of the color combinations are a little unconventional -- just as you'd expect here: lavender with brown, pink with brown, blue with brown. Come to think of it, there is a lot of brown. A one-shouldered dress in colorblocked navy, brown and white sequins is the final look.
[Associated
Press;
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