| 
            But Qiaoxuan Zhou and Keith Cadwallader think that inverse gas 
            chromatography can solve that problem -- and so does the USDA, which 
            will contribute over $280,000 from its National Research Initiative 
            Grants Program so their research can continue. "Most people are 
            convinced of soy's health benefits, but they think soy has a beany 
            or bitter flavor," said Zhou, a researcher in Cadwallader's 
            University of Illinois lab. 
            That perception is soy's first problem. The second problem is 
            that flavors added to processed soy foods can either change or fade 
            -- a lot -- because soy protein has the ability to bind flavors. 
            "For example, vanilla soy milk is very popular, but it's driving the 
            industry crazy," said Cadwallader, a U of I associate professor of 
            food chemistry. "Over time, the vanilla flavor binds to the soy 
            protein, causing flavor fade."  
            He added that flavoring designed for other uses usually doesn't 
            work in soy: "When a flavor binds to soy protein, it can turn out 
            completely different from what you'd expect. You can add a nice 
            strawberry flavor, and it can end up tasting like cough medicine." 
            But Zhou has found a way to evaluate a flavor compound's ultimate 
            performance and staying power. A food flavoring can contain more 
            than 20 different compounds, and the soy protein may bind with three 
            of them or 10 of them, with some but not with others. Zhou uses 
            inverse gas chromatography to figure out "in a sensitive, precise, 
            accurate and rapid way" which of those compounds will bind to soy 
            protein. The technology also tells her how weak or strong those 
            binding affinities are. 
            That's important to food manufacturers who want to get enough soy 
            into their products to qualify for the health labels. "The idea is 
            to get enough soy protein in a product to allow these health claims 
            so consumers can reap the benefits of soy," Cadwallader said. "And 
            sometimes that's a lot of soy -- enough to affect flavor." 
            
            [to top of second column in this article] 
            
            
               | 
            
             
            
              
            To complicate matters further, the chemist said that a flavoring 
            that works in a liquid soy product won't work in a dry soy product, 
            such as cereal bars or bakery products. "We found that water 
            molecules compete with flavor molecules to bind to the protein, so 
            just a trace of moisture in a dry soy food can have a big effect on 
            its flavor." Until Zhou started her current research, little work 
            had been done in flavor binding in low-moisture soy foods, 
            Cadwallader said. And food manufacturers are eager to know how these 
            compounds will interact because they want to be able to store dry 
            soy products without losing flavor.  
            Using inverse gas chromatography, Zhou is evaluating how soy 
            affects flavor in soy-enhanced products. Using soda crackers as a 
            model, she successfully demonstrated that soy-enhanced crackers 
            interact or bind with specific butter-flavor compounds much 
            differently than butter flavor in plain wheat crackers. These 
            results will help processors design suitable flavorings for soy 
            foods in which flavor binding has hindered product development. 
             
            Cadwallader said inverse gas chromatography is less expensive, 
            less time-consuming, and more sensitive and reliable than human 
            panelists who use their olfactory systems to distinguish the 
            flavor-binding effects. 
            So both scientists are optimistic about the use of this 
            technology by food manufacturers. They also believe the work they're 
            doing will make soy foods more appealing to the American consumer. 
            "And that's important because soy has proven health benefits," he 
            said. "We'd like to see everyone eating more of it."  
            The initial part of this research was published in the Journal of 
            Agricultural and Food Chemistry. Funding was provided by the 
            Illinois Center for Soy Foods at the University of Illinois.  
            
            [News release from the
            University of Illinois College 
            of Agricultural, Consumer and Environmental Sciences]  |